| Fashion and clothing
have ostensibly been, and still
are, the exclusive domain of
women. Fashion and haute couture
are synonymous, at least in
Pakistan, with women. In the
Western world, though, men did
not spend all that much on clothing
till the December of 2001, who
unlike their counterparts in
Pakistan, were very much fashion
savvy. Even in the 16th century
men were very conscious of what
they wore. Clothes even then
were a statement, not necessarily
a fashion statement, but a statement
nevertheless. The aristocratic
class distinguished itself from
the common class through their
clothes, shoes, hairstyles,
and mannerism.
Pakistani men, on the other
hand, have been less conscious
of their clothes until the
media blitz. It was something
which men till recently did
not take an active interest
in. Men throughout time have
worn basically the same traditional
outfit – the awami suit
or the shalwar-kameez as it
is popularly known. Gone are
the days of being patriotic!
Shalwar-Kameez is a complete
dress, like a trouser-shirt
combination. Shalwar is a
pair of thin cotton trousers,
baggy but tapered at the ankles.
It has a draw-string at the
waist acting as a belt; and
a long tunic like shirt down
to the knees, which is called
Kameez. Nowadays men, too,
like the women wear the Shalwar-Kameez
in a variety of tasteful colors
and designs, making it trendy
and in vogue.
Designer Rashid Ali Khan
says, “The basic ensemble
changed from province to province.
In Punjab it is the kurta-shalwar
that is dominant, while in
Karachi it is kurta-pajama,
and in NWFP and Balochistan,
it is shalwar Kameez.”
The feudal landlords had
theirs embroidered and well-starched
while the ordinary man just
donned the outfit, even if
not properly ironed. He only
dared to wear a starched awami
suit or even an embroidered
one on happy occasions of
Eid or his wedding.
The Punjabi natives mostly
sport unstitched clothes called
Lungis or Dhotis. Lungis or
Dhotis are skirt like nether
garments, which are wrapped
and tucked around waist. It
is worn with the Kameez in
formal settings, and with
a short waistcoat vest-like
shirt in informal gatherings.
Pathan men also wear sleeveless
embroidered vests over the
Shalwar-Kameez. In addition,
they wear caps of various
shapes and designs; the most
common being the Pukul Hat
which is a flat round wool
cap. The Balochis wear Turbans
which have the clothes tied
in such a way that symbolize
their tribal identity. In
Sindh highly decorative caps
are common. Hats and caps
vary in cut and shape, as
well as embroidery stitches
and patterns, according to
the tribe or peoples of the
particular area. Their wearers
may thus be immediately identified
as to their ethnic origin,
economic standing and social
status.
Prior to the media bang,
the rich and the famous were
the trend setters. “Fashion
starts from the high class,”
says Rashid. In fact, in the
good old days, men’s
fashion generally consisted
of trends of the rich and
famous. The film stars, politicians,
industrialists, and business
tycoons were those who were
always
abreast with the latest in
men’s fashion. They
could afford the brands and
newest of styles. They were
the ones who had only the
latest in their wardrobes.
It is a luxury for just a
limited number of men to be
able to enjoy the cost of
being fashionable. Not everyone
could afford to follow the
latest fads and trends.
“The rich can afford
to change their wardrobe every
month or so and the new wardrobe
reflects their changing tastes
thereby setting new trends,”
he says. When people who have
status start to wear new or
different clothes a fashion
trend may start. People, who
like or respect them, may
start to wear clothes of a
similar style.
In the male political class,
the Jinnah sherwani as well
as the achkan churidar is
the official dress code at
all ceremonial and official
state functions. The new set
of politicians is now opting
for the formal three-piece
western suit for formal functions.
The trend of wearing the sherwani
among the common class is
restricted to weddings. The
sherwani comes in a variety
of colors, like black, blues,
greens and browns with the
elegance of embroidery using
semi-precious stones. Pure
silk Jamewar turbans and embroidered
shawl complete the attire
making the groom look like
a member of the royal courtyard
of the Maharajas and Emperors.
At the beginning of the 20th
century, fashion magazines
began to include photographs
and became even more influential.
In cities throughout the world
these magazines were greatly
sought-after and had a profound
effect on public taste. High
fashion did not become popular
among the general population
until it started
getting featured on television.
The prime reason for successful
universality of men’s
fashion is the media exposure.
Boys are aware of the latest
trends. They all want to ape
their favorite movie or television
star. Sports fans would go
to any length to copy their
icon’s fashion trends
– from head to toe.
The music channels have made
the youth more conscious of
fashion. The music buffs would
get their hair do, body pierced
and tattooed, their clothes
wearing – all in accordance
to what is done by their music
icon. Today men’s fashion
is not limited to aping the
clothes worn by the glamour
men, but also their entire
style. Their hairstyle and
all else is a part of the
fashion world of today’s
man.
However, Rashid disagrees
that more music channels means
more fashion exposure. “Films
and prime time soap operas
are the major trend setters.
Music videos are of short
duration and as such have
little impact on fashion.
Soap operas are now becoming
lengthy and the fashion can
be closely observed.”
In the west, the fashion
of the 70s was in vogue among
the men. Wearing leisure suits,
funky disco shirts, wild vintage
disco men’s platform
shoes, and fun polyester disco
pants was the order of the
day.
“The 60s was the trend
setter in Pakistani male fashion.
Waheed Murad and Nadeem looks
were very popular. Men started
to wear boot-cut trousers,
big collars and tight fittings,”
Rashid further elaborates.
The youngsters who wanted
to be fashionable but had
no means of looking for the
latest trends, minutely observed
the local boys of the neighborhood
who were fashionable. Going
to the cinemas and seeing
the dressing of the male cast
was adopted. The Michael Jackson
era of the 80s was closely
followed. White socks,
half-cut shoes, leather pants
and sunglasses were adopted.
“Nowadays, the 60s Waheed
Murad-Nadeem looks are very
much in vogue,” says
Rashid.
Men’s fashion around
the globe has taken a turn.
Most men even today do not
lust after fashion as obsessively
as their female counterparts
and simply do not spend enough
money on clothes. They are
just interested in looking
good, and want to wear cool
clothes and be individual
looking.
In Pakistan’s fashion
scenario, men’s fashion
is a booming business, no
matter what the level of its
existence may be. The fashionable
man has arrived in every household.
He spends hours shopping,
unlike a time when the word
shopping made him fret. He
is more aware of himself and
makes every attempt to make
an impact, no matter from
which strata of society he
hails from. He spends hours
in a month at a spa, and gets
his pedicure or facial amongst
other services. They are overly
concerned about how they look,
what they wear, and how they
present themselves. And all
this is due to the media boom.
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